A Fall Getaway in the Hudson Valley
It’s the perfect time to visit.
As summer wanes on the shore, we turn our attention inland.
There are more trees there, we’re told, and the trees tend to do things this time of year that merit closer inspection. To observe these phenomena firsthand, you’ll do no better than the storied and stunning environs of New York’s Hudson Valley.
Flowing over with small-town charm, outdoor excursions, and a booming arts and culinary scene, it’s the ideal destination for a proper fall weekend.
So grab a weekender, stuff it with fall standards — casual button-ups, denim, your pullover of choice — and decamp for approximately any burg between NYC and Albany.
Where to stay
You’re in luck. In addition to being a magnet for stunning cabin and country house rentals like this one, the Hudson Valley is lousy with stately hotels big and small.
Moving from south to north along the accessible-by-rail east side of the river:
You’ve got the new Mirbeau Inn and Spa just outside Beacon, a conversion of a Victorian estate-turned-sanitarium for the stars (Zelda Fitzgerald, Truman Capote and Marilyn Monroe all convalesced there).
There’s also a Mirbeau in Rhinebeck, but for the boutique vibes synonymous with fall weekenders, try Harlow House, a cozy guesthouse with six acres of prime deciduous canopy to explore.
If you’re into the whole glamping thing, look up Gatherwild Ranch in Germantown. If you’re definitely not, Hudson’s Maker Hotel might be the best luxury stay in the region.
And if you have a car, and thus access to the west side of the Hudson, you can’t go wrong with the Woodstock Way’s cedar-sided villas or the epic, sprawling Mohonk Mountain House.
First, an adventure
You’re not here to bask in front of the admittedly awesome in-room fireplace all day. You’re here to admire an East Coast autumn in all its technicolor splendor.
For towering vistas that stretch from the Manhattan skyline to the Catskills, head to Hudson Highlands State Park in Cold Spring. You’ll find a maze of trails for all difficulty levels, including the Bull Hill Full Loop, a rambling six-miler that’ll get the blood flowing without breaking you.
For a more leisurely hike with a blockbuster payoff, go west to Kaaterskill Falls, a 260-foot cascade in the Catskills under 40 minutes from both Woodstock and Hudson. Intrepid cyclists and drivers, meanwhile, will like Arden Valley Road and Seven Lakes Drive, two roller-coaster routes around Bear Mountain that deliver photo ops at every turn.
And if you want to get on the water, do so with Storm King Adventure Tours, who host guided kayak trips around quasi-haunted Bannerman Island until October.
What to wear
Long weekends call for smart packing. Minimal curation, maximum versatility. Think sun-faded, neutral tones and utilitarian items that can pull double duty.
The One Short — now in fall-friendly olive and burgundy — is your bedrock, a quick-dry, four-way-stretch short perfect for trail runs, river runs, and running up a tab at the local brewhouse. Throw in some hand-me-down-soft Driftwood Denim Pants in your preferred wash, and you have all occasions covered.
Up top, it’s all about comfortable, stackable layers. The Norwood and Oasis Long-Sleeve shirts are breathable, lightweight options that don’t mind a little roughhousing, while the Rover Crewneck is a heritage-style sweatshirt that has no business cleaning up as well as it invariably does.
Add socks, undies, and a couple Saltaire tees. Job done.
Take your pick
It wouldn’t be fall in the Hudson Valley without an apple-picking detour.
Fishkill Farms is a veritable fall-a-palooza for families: apple orchards, pumpkin patches, corn mazes, hay rides, food trucks, cider flights … the gamut.
For the more adult version, go to Seminary Hill in Callicoon, an award-winning apple and pear cidery offering something more akin to a winery visit: tours, tastings, and even a small boarding house should you want to stay the night.
Where art, though?
Everywhere. There is art everywhere.
Dia Beacon is the region’s must-visit, with large-scale pieces from the world’s best installation artists and an always-killer slate of temporary exhibitions.
Across the river in New Windsor, the Storm King Art Center is even larger-scale — and completely outdoors. For smaller crowds but similar walk-in-the-woods vibes, you can also try Opus 40 in Saugerties.
Farther north, in Greenport, Olana State Historic Site is the former home of Frederic Edwin Church, one of America’s preeminent landscape artists. Expect lush grounds, plus paintings of even lusher ones.
Finally, we’d be remiss not to encourage you to catch the end of the season at Hudson Valley Shakespeare. They moved into a stunning new amphitheater in Garrison earlier this year, and shows run into late September.
Eat, drink, be merry
Given that the Hudson Valley is home to the Culinary Institute of America (and its three competitively priced student-run restaurants), it’s no surprise that your dining options are elite and plentiful.
Hudson earns its “Brooklyn North” reputation with a slew of great bars and eateries. We recommend Wm. Farmer & Sons for rustic New American fare and inspired cocktails, as well as Suarez Family Brewery for one-of-a-kind beers in an elegant taproom.
Dassai Blue Sake Brewery in Hyde Park is the first American outpost from prestigious Japanese label Dassai. (Don’t miss the omakase-style lunches and dinners; they are exceptional.) While over in Poughkeepsie, Cocina la Cabañita cooks up authentic Oaxacan food with house-made tortillas that could start a war.
And if it’s nightlife you’re after, try The Falcon in Marlboro, where they serve up casual eats, cold beer, and near-nightly live music on a three-tiered patio with waterfall views. Or our favorite bar in the region: Beacon’s Draught Industries, which lays claim to a state-of-the-art Flux Capacitor tap system — one of fewer than 10 in the world.
Can you fit all those into a weekend? Maybe, maybe not.
Just size up in that One Short if you plan on making a genuine attempt.